With 10 Island stops behind Untethered and at least 15 COVID Nasopharyngeal Swab tests behind as well, it seemed the islands were at least accessible at some level and the sailing good in this most unusual Caribbean sailing season. The largest challenges also seemed behind the stern of Untethered as she arrived on St Lucia after the 6 day solo adventure. Finally now a day sail away from St Vincent and the large group of Grenadines beckoned with potentially a month here off peaceful beaches and in perfect Caribbean waters. Sail repairs are now underway and other re-fitting and repairs of rigging are on going as we hope to see restored sails in a few days. These 1st days back ashore are busy and only the thoughts of ridding the boat and decks of salt and preparation for guests to arrive, and then casting off for the Grenadines. St Lucia is a beautiful island with dozens of perfect protected bays and beaches and a return to this island of so many prior adventures is welcomed. All of this comes to a halt though as day three ashore brings a sudden and massive change for all the days ahead for Untethered and all around her.
The Volcano on St Vincent has erupted overnight and has sent smoke and ash over 30,000’ above this small Caribbean island! The height of the cloud sends ash hundreds of miles east and then as it slowly rains down the eastern trades spread it widely to the west, covering Barbados and most of the Grenadines. A fine black dust begins to settle on Untethered as half of St Vincent is readied for evacuation. It seems hard to imagine a more devastating scenario for these Caribbean islands after battling a year of Covid with limited medical facilities. The last eruptions date back 40 years and then another 80 years before that. How can THIS be happening now! All on St Lucia now ready to aid as food and water stream daily down the dock behind Untethered to countless large ships that will deliver them south.
Eruptions, new ash falls, and lava flows continue almost daily and it seems no clear end in site. Each day is a little more surreal than the prior as it is hard to fathom the events unfolding with daily battles now of Virus and Volcano. All flights temporarily suspended into these islands as volvanic activity is monitored and forecasted. On Untethered the daily ritual of deck cleaning is carried out with masks, more for the fine dust in the air now than for Covid protection. As days pass it is clear there is no choice but to start the journey back north. Untethered now awaits a window for crew to land and board so we can push off the docks once again and retrace our steps back north to Nevis.
Crew has landed on St Lucia! A fresh pair of legs and hands from Colorado has stepped aboard and we now ready Untethered for a morning departure and the week back up to Nevis. With a fellow Geophysicist aboard we begin our sail back North and many hours of discussion of Volcanoes, Virus and the islands that slip past us each day. The only constant as we push North is reflection on the wonder in the events around us, along with the peace in the hull moving thru the water and the steady breeze in our sails. All seems more than could be imagined, comprehended or foreseen as the path North is the 1st step in ending the Caribbean season and the longer passage back to the US mainland.